Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
